The World of Watches

In the course of centuries, spectacles have become a fashion accessory, because feminine wearers have been clever enough to transform this utilitarian object into a means of adornment.  Only very few people know that spectacles have been around since the 13th century at a time in which the clergy gave very strong impulses to intellectual and cultural activity as well as to scientific research. As a matter of fact, spectacles were invented by a monk, the Englishman Roger Bacon. In the year 1267 he discovered the so-called "reading glass" which was made from beryl, a light green semi-precious stone which magnified manuscript letters. The first "reading glass" was rarely used by women in those remote days, as only a few of them were able to read. At that time it was the privilege of the wealthy nobility to own a sight-aid. The cost of a reading glass was very high, while its manufacture was a lengthy process.  Later another glass was added to this single reading glass ...

 The first wristwatch goes back a hundred years before many historians argue that wristwatches were a product of the early 20th century, created for soldiers in the Boer War. This article in a 1954 issue of Europa Star magazine postulates that a wristwatch was custom-ordered by Josephine Bonaparte, first wife of Emperor Napoleon I. Have a look  ================= When, in 1906, the first wristwatches were launched on the market, horological experts were quite sincere in believing that these new timepieces -- instead of being carried in the pocket by men or worn as pendants by women -- had to be considered as the original creation of a progress-minded innovator. However, the truth lies elsewhere: wristwatches were invented at the early beginning of the 19th century and were perhaps already known at the end of the 18th century. Josephine Bonaparte Anyhow, a glamorous specimen of wrist watch was executed by Nitot, the Parisian court jeweler of Emperor Napoleon I, in 1806. Empress ...

By Bruce Shawkey The founder of Eastern Watch, a leading Watch and Jewelry shop in Bombay, was a Swiss citizen, Mr. Vogel, who died last year after returning to Switzerland. Mr. Vogel, during his lifetime, had taken an interest in the St. Catherine's Home for Children, founded in 1927 by an Englishwoman and now managed by the Daughters of the Cross. As this Home is supported entirely by grants and public donations and as the huts are in urgent need of repair, it is to be hoped that other prominent businessmen dealing in watches and jewelry will follow in Mr. Vogel's footsteps in supporting efficiently this useful institution which is beneficial from both the human and social points of view.  We take pleasure in reproducing here the report of the Mother Superior in which she exposes the aim and utility of the Institution. The Institution has grown considerably since 1927 and now comprises about 430 babies, children and young girls, all taken in regardless of caste and religion. ...

Interesting watch company, Tenor Dorly. Tenor Dorly was founded in Tramelan, Switzerland in the 1950s, went bankrupt in 1974 and was relaunched in 1997. Early models, especially of this 'space egg' design, are quite rare and very sought-after. The term 'space egg' refers to the oval, egg-shaped dial. More info for a seller who had one for sale (picture below): Rare, 100% Swiss steel 'jump hour' watch with date display and 17 jewels. Tenor Dorly was founded in Tramelan, Switzerland in the 1950s, went bankrupt in 1974 and was relaunched in 1997. Early models, especially of this 'space egg' design, are quite rare and very sought-after. The term 'space egg' refers to the oval, egg-shaped dial. Outer dimensions of the case are approx. 4 x 4 cm, the inner 'egg' measures approx. 2.7 x 1.6 cm. Mechanical, manual winding, water resistant, not tested. Comes with a black/dark blue leather strap that's only been worn a few times, and with a new b...

 By Bruce Shawkey It seems everybody was making dive watches in the mid to late 1950s. That's because equipment manufactures came up with the Aqualung and other devices that allowed divers to go deeper than ever before. These improvements  were due in no small part to Jacques Cousteau, the famous French naturalist. One of the many companies to come out with dive watches was Sandoz. Here are a couple of example from an ad in Europa Star magazine: Sandoz is a Swiss watch brand, originally established in the late 19th century by Henri Sandoz near Tavannes, Switzerland. There are many variations of the Sandoz name which are used by at least four different companies around the world. Here are some images of Sandoz watches through the decades: Here are addition articles on Sandoz watches I have written: Found this ad in the March/April 1960 issue of Swiss Horological Journal for a Sandoz Model 333 self-winding watch. The movement had six ball bearings, an obvious effort to compete w...

JENNY (pronounced YEN-ny) watches fairly unknown except to collectors of vintage dive watches. Even lesser known is that JENNY also made some nifty looking time-only watches. Have a look at some JENNY watches from circa 1960. That last one, in particular, is a real looker.

  By Bruce Shawkey Counterfeits have been around almost since the invention of the wristwatch. But this article in a 1963 issue of Europa Star magazine is the first time I've seen this "industry" covered in detail, naming names, quoting number of fake watches made, etc. The article estimates approximately 25,000 fakes are made each month. This is a drop in the bucket compared with the number of fake watches made today. By some estimates, 40 million counterfeit watches are sold globally each year, the net profit of which is roughly $1 billion. Most of us have seen images of steam rollers smashing piles of counterfeit watches. The most common fakes are Rolex. The practice is so common, that Rolex won't even comment on the practice any more. However, there are dozens and perhaps hundreds of You Tube videos on how to spot a fake. So without further ado, here is the article:  HONG KONG -- A secret organization is making millions of dollars by copying expensive Swiss watche...

 By Bruce Shawkey Found this interesting article in a 1967 issue of Europa Star Magazine on crown/springbar production: Every month, this factory makes 1,800,000 spring bars. That's 21,600,000 spring bars a year. In addition, the factory makes 800,000 pocketwatch bows every month. This is in 1967, by which time time pocketwatches were a quaint product of the early 20th century! Here's some more information on Pibor's output:

Designed by Patek Phippe, this master clock can coordinate up to 1,000 separate clocks. Does the Pope really need to be that accurate? I can't even imagine he wear a wristwatch. 

 Edmond Mathey-Tissot established his watchmaking business in the village of Les Ponts-de-Martel in 1886. Mathey-Tissot is an independent watchmaker, with headquarters located in Geneva. Mathey-Tissot is not associated with Tissot, another Swiss watchmaking firm. Mathey-Tissot initially specialized in "repeater" watches, timepieces that chime the hour and half hour. Soon afterwards, the company produced chronographs. During World War I, Mathey-Tissot supplied the United States Army Corps of Engineers with precision chronographs. Gen. John J. Pershing, Commander of the United States Expeditionary Forces, selected Mathey-Tissot as the watch to award to members of his staff. In addition to its regular business of producing fine watches for jewelers throughout the world, Mathey-Tissot before and during World War II turned out thousands of timepieces for the United States armed forces and the British Navy. The company is still in business to this day, and maintains a website...

Juvenia is not often thought of as a "serious" watch company due to number of novelty watches they created over the decades. Yet the company produced many of its own movement Calibers and is just as serious as any other watch company as you will soon see. They are also one of the few Swiss watch companies to have manufactured watches continuously without interruption since its creation. The firm was founded in 1860 by Jacques Didishiem.    A hotbed of innovation, Juvenia developed a variety of creations, such as ring watches, pendant watches, table clocks and standing clocks. Their range included a number of significant gift items, such as their table clocks. These were an ideal medium for craftsmen to let their imaginations run wild and create richly decorated pieces. Recognized for their mastery in the art of decorating  time, the company was rewarded at the Grand Prix des Arts Décoratifs de Paris in 1925, the exposition which gave birth to the term Art Deco. These mode...